Portugal 2019
Portugal First Day! 30-07-2019
The journey had been stressful but then there are always loads of things to sort out. Plus I discovered that despite telling my credit card company where I was heading my card didn’t work! On the other hand the motorway journey was really straight forward, one bit for about an hour and then take a left and carry on through some stunning scenery and surprisingly quiet road for another 2 or so hours. Eventually we pulled off the motorway, found ourselves on the other side of the little village of Faia and were making our way up a very bumpy dirt track to Villa da Manta. As we were pulling up a massive butterfly and a smaller pair fly by without stopping for ID – interesting from the get go!
Once we were settled in and unpacked we took a wander round the various steep paths with the aim of finding the pool. On the way down I cursed the Gatekeepers as I was sure there were some Southern in among them but they didn’t stop long enough for me. Something even smaller did stop though – my first confirmed Southern Brown Argus (SBA) and also my first ‘Lifer’ of the trip. We carried en masse on once I’d caught up with the others and at times it seemed bewildering as one steep path led to a new terrace and soon seemingly endlessly. Butterflies were flying about but I wasn’t used to following them when they were flying so frenetically due to the 30 degree heat and they were so turbo charged they rarely stopped. In amidst the Gatekeepers I saw slightly bigger butterflies; Specklies, Meadow Browns, Walls and another new species for me – Tree Grayling. A bit like ours in habits but in a monotone grey colour. Finally we found the pool and a small butterfly bumbling in the reeds that lined it was a Lang’s Short-tailed Blue. We headed back to our Safari tent and while the girls got ready for a swim I spotted a Purple Hairstreak in the Chestnut (?) tree opposite the veranda. Things were going well with two lifers while finding my bearings and now a Purple Hairstreak from the dining table.
The girls headed back down to the pool and I accompanied them and once they were in I set to having a bit of a mooch. I checked each Gatekeeper more carefully now just to ‘make sure’ but most were the familiar species although much more blonde and unicolour – quite different to the ones we get at home and I’d gotten used to seeing recently. I found my way back to the corner of the path where I’d found the Tree Grayling and it was still hanging about here (it could have been a different individual but seemed to be similarly marked) so I followed him into the Olive grove where he tussled with another. Slightly further down the hill I finally found another lifer and one I’d been hoping to see – a Southern Gatekeeper, even more flighty than the usual variety. Feeling the heat I sought some shade and so checked back in with the girls at the pool. The Lang’s was there again and was a bit more co-operative this time. In the shaded area around the edge of the pool a few Specklies flew looking like a totally different species.
I set off down the main dirt track which wed driven up earlier. Along the way a few Hedgies flew as well as a Holly Blue and some Meadow Browns. What really surprised me was the huge numbers of Grayling that were resting a la Walls on the walls, trunks of tress and rocks that lined the track. Some seemed to lack the white band on them?
Back at base I had a quick mooch about before tea and in the small field next to the decking was another SBA as well as a Small Heath and while we ate a/the Purple Hairstreak sat above us possibly attracted by the scent of my Bombay Badboy?
Later still, showered and with a beer to hand I sat and wrote up the day while Crickets churred and so too did a distant Nightjar…I can’t wait for the morrow!
Once we were settled in and unpacked we took a wander round the various steep paths with the aim of finding the pool. On the way down I cursed the Gatekeepers as I was sure there were some Southern in among them but they didn’t stop long enough for me. Something even smaller did stop though – my first confirmed Southern Brown Argus (SBA) and also my first ‘Lifer’ of the trip. We carried en masse on once I’d caught up with the others and at times it seemed bewildering as one steep path led to a new terrace and soon seemingly endlessly. Butterflies were flying about but I wasn’t used to following them when they were flying so frenetically due to the 30 degree heat and they were so turbo charged they rarely stopped. In amidst the Gatekeepers I saw slightly bigger butterflies; Specklies, Meadow Browns, Walls and another new species for me – Tree Grayling. A bit like ours in habits but in a monotone grey colour. Finally we found the pool and a small butterfly bumbling in the reeds that lined it was a Lang’s Short-tailed Blue. We headed back to our Safari tent and while the girls got ready for a swim I spotted a Purple Hairstreak in the Chestnut (?) tree opposite the veranda. Things were going well with two lifers while finding my bearings and now a Purple Hairstreak from the dining table.
The girls headed back down to the pool and I accompanied them and once they were in I set to having a bit of a mooch. I checked each Gatekeeper more carefully now just to ‘make sure’ but most were the familiar species although much more blonde and unicolour – quite different to the ones we get at home and I’d gotten used to seeing recently. I found my way back to the corner of the path where I’d found the Tree Grayling and it was still hanging about here (it could have been a different individual but seemed to be similarly marked) so I followed him into the Olive grove where he tussled with another. Slightly further down the hill I finally found another lifer and one I’d been hoping to see – a Southern Gatekeeper, even more flighty than the usual variety. Feeling the heat I sought some shade and so checked back in with the girls at the pool. The Lang’s was there again and was a bit more co-operative this time. In the shaded area around the edge of the pool a few Specklies flew looking like a totally different species.
I set off down the main dirt track which wed driven up earlier. Along the way a few Hedgies flew as well as a Holly Blue and some Meadow Browns. What really surprised me was the huge numbers of Grayling that were resting a la Walls on the walls, trunks of tress and rocks that lined the track. Some seemed to lack the white band on them?
Back at base I had a quick mooch about before tea and in the small field next to the decking was another SBA as well as a Small Heath and while we ate a/the Purple Hairstreak sat above us possibly attracted by the scent of my Bombay Badboy?
Later still, showered and with a beer to hand I sat and wrote up the day while Crickets churred and so too did a distant Nightjar…I can’t wait for the morrow!
Day 2 Part 1 – Out and about the site….31-07-2019
Up bright and early and after a shower and fresh coffee I slipped off for an hour before breakfast to have a bit of a recce. I was looking for my ‘go to’ place as I had in the Dordogne. Down the track I was joined by only a single Hedgie which I wasn’t too surprised about as in my T-shirt and shorts I felt slightly chilly. Slightly further down the track I spied a much larger and darker butterfly with flashes of white – a Great Banded Grayling? I wondered if it was and when I reached the spot that it had been at I fund a fore wing lying on the deck. It still being a bit early for the butterflies was indicated further by a Grayling desperately soaking up the rising suns warmth. At the end of the road I had a choice to make so I tried the right hand side before realising that there wasn’t any open ground that I could access so I retraced my steps and followed the road on down to the left. A Scarce Swallowtail flew through the only ’garden’ I could see away into the distance and after a 10 minute walk I came to the junction at the end of the road where there were flowers that I could access. It looked promising but at this time of the morning the sun hadn’t reached it yet so I decided to come back later once it wasn’t so shaded. On the way back I found an interestingly marked Jays (local race?) and a trip of Crested Tits – my first since Poland many years ago! Back on the main track up the hill the butterflies were just starting to wake up. There were a couple of Hedgies and a very nice male Wall. Nearer home I spied a Southern Gatekeeper and a brace of Small Coppers to add to the tally whilst a Grayling hung around in the small field near the tent. Not too bad for a pre-brekkie wander.
We needed food so we loaded the car up with bags and water and SATNAV and took a trip to Guarda in search of a Lidl but before I could drive away a Fritillary flew into our ‘garden’. I managed a few shots before I was called away. On the drive I noted a few Browns and whites and a Scarce Swallowtail (the same one as earlier?) but the real kick in the guts came on our return as we ascended the track up to the lodge. A Cardinal dropped down on a leaf strewn bank on the passenger side. It looked like a larger ‘normal’ Silver washed crossed with a Valesina. Typically this was the one time that my camera was in the boot! Grinding my teeth I carefully carried on the slow drive up the track and then set about unpacking before I was able to take a quick detour down the track and back. I saw all the usual suspects but didn’t add a Cardinal although to console me a female Southern Gatekeeper opened up.
After lunch a GV White pretended to be a Bath White and just as I was curing it a Southern Scarce Swallowtail landed on the other side of the veranda so I was able to get a few shots. Heartened by this I set off to check out some other parts of the site and I found a good looking place to check properly later.
After lunch I escorted the girls down to the swimming pool/pond and once they were past the ‘Guardian Frogs’ I took to following various pathways that wound downwards towards the valley floor and what I thought was the end of the site. Despite the promising look of the various terraces and fields it was very hard work for only a little return. I did manage to catch up with a ‘Swarthy Copper’ – misnamed ‘Small Copper’ as it was so dark at first I thought it was Sooty Copper. It should have been renamed a Miniscule Amount of Copper. There were also the usual butterflies; Walls, Grayling a plenty, orange Specklies, Tree Graylings and also plenty of very flighty Hedgies and Meadow Browns.
To be continued...
We needed food so we loaded the car up with bags and water and SATNAV and took a trip to Guarda in search of a Lidl but before I could drive away a Fritillary flew into our ‘garden’. I managed a few shots before I was called away. On the drive I noted a few Browns and whites and a Scarce Swallowtail (the same one as earlier?) but the real kick in the guts came on our return as we ascended the track up to the lodge. A Cardinal dropped down on a leaf strewn bank on the passenger side. It looked like a larger ‘normal’ Silver washed crossed with a Valesina. Typically this was the one time that my camera was in the boot! Grinding my teeth I carefully carried on the slow drive up the track and then set about unpacking before I was able to take a quick detour down the track and back. I saw all the usual suspects but didn’t add a Cardinal although to console me a female Southern Gatekeeper opened up.
After lunch a GV White pretended to be a Bath White and just as I was curing it a Southern Scarce Swallowtail landed on the other side of the veranda so I was able to get a few shots. Heartened by this I set off to check out some other parts of the site and I found a good looking place to check properly later.
After lunch I escorted the girls down to the swimming pool/pond and once they were past the ‘Guardian Frogs’ I took to following various pathways that wound downwards towards the valley floor and what I thought was the end of the site. Despite the promising look of the various terraces and fields it was very hard work for only a little return. I did manage to catch up with a ‘Swarthy Copper’ – misnamed ‘Small Copper’ as it was so dark at first I thought it was Sooty Copper. It should have been renamed a Miniscule Amount of Copper. There were also the usual butterflies; Walls, Grayling a plenty, orange Specklies, Tree Graylings and also plenty of very flighty Hedgies and Meadow Browns.
To be continued...
Day 2 Part 2 – Out and about the site….31-07-2019
My next foray out came shortly after arriving back from the last this time I needed to pick up some more toilet paper from the main house so I set off on a slightly roundabout route to run my errand. I called in at the lush trackway that I’d spied earlier. My hunch about it’s butterfly pulling power proved accurate almost immediately as the normally flighty and unapproachable Southern Gatekeepers actually sat still, occasionally posed and one even opened up to reveal the very tidy sex brand of the male. On one small bush I counted a Holly Blue, Small Copper, 2 Hedgies and 3 Southern Gatekeepers. From a different bush something much larger took off, a Cardinal. I managed a few snatch shots as it flew about though most ended up as ‘record’ shots because it insisted on flying and landing above head height on the foliage that overhung the path from the terrace above. Still at least I ‘had’ my Cardinal. As I was leaving another Copper caught my eye. At first, having now gotten used to seeing Miniscule Amount of Coppers that’s what I thought it was but as it turned I could see the square of spots on the underside among the others so I knew that I had a Sooty Copper. As it turned and opened up the forewings I spied that it had ‘tails’ which checking later meant that this was an Iberian Sooty Copper. Shots of two lifers in as many minutes – since when is butterflying this easy?
I carried on my quest for the ‘Roll of the Bog’ but was brought to a standstill just shy of the house. I had unwittingly spooked a Cardinal (for such a big butterfly they’re surprisingly good at disappearing) so I watched with bated breath as it soared by and on down the slope. Suddenly it veered back and landed neatly on a clump of yellow flowers. Somehow I managed to scramble down the slope and get enough purchase for a few shots. I think it took a liking to me as it moved round the bush into an even better position. I dutifully returned with the required loo paper, albeit somewhat later than expected and chilled for a bit in the camp with a coffee and my shots to look through.
The girls wanted to head to the pool again so again I escorted them down and once they were in I again ventured forth. Down through the Olive groves I went getting a bite from a monstrous fly (possibly a Mammothfly?) on the way and making the wrong call as to which of two butterflies to follow. As I was setting off a male Sooty and two BAs flew in from opposite sides of the track. In the ensuing melee I tried to follow what I thought was the Sooty but in the end was the SBA. Dusty and tired I stumbled upon a Lang’s back at the pool when picking the girls up.
The final venture of the day took me round the various trackways again. The heavily vegetated little spot held some nice Southern Gatekeepers, a Wall and a lovely fresh Holly Blue. Further along the path a Spotted Fritillary landed. It was a male but looked nothing like the artificial orange ones from the Dordogne. I wondered if it was a Lesser Spotted Frit at the time but looking more closely at it later it was just a Spotted – though of a different race to those in the Dordogne. It was a cracking butterfly and should have been the perfect end to the day but foolishly I carried on, seeking a Striped Grayling but not fining one despite walking all the way down the track to the main road and then back up. This meant that the final butterfly of the day was a Meadow Brown (hopefully it’ll be a Dusky WINK) but the perfect ending came later as I sat on the decking/veranda sipping red wine and watching the sun setting behind the mountain.
I carried on my quest for the ‘Roll of the Bog’ but was brought to a standstill just shy of the house. I had unwittingly spooked a Cardinal (for such a big butterfly they’re surprisingly good at disappearing) so I watched with bated breath as it soared by and on down the slope. Suddenly it veered back and landed neatly on a clump of yellow flowers. Somehow I managed to scramble down the slope and get enough purchase for a few shots. I think it took a liking to me as it moved round the bush into an even better position. I dutifully returned with the required loo paper, albeit somewhat later than expected and chilled for a bit in the camp with a coffee and my shots to look through.
The girls wanted to head to the pool again so again I escorted them down and once they were in I again ventured forth. Down through the Olive groves I went getting a bite from a monstrous fly (possibly a Mammothfly?) on the way and making the wrong call as to which of two butterflies to follow. As I was setting off a male Sooty and two BAs flew in from opposite sides of the track. In the ensuing melee I tried to follow what I thought was the Sooty but in the end was the SBA. Dusty and tired I stumbled upon a Lang’s back at the pool when picking the girls up.
The final venture of the day took me round the various trackways again. The heavily vegetated little spot held some nice Southern Gatekeepers, a Wall and a lovely fresh Holly Blue. Further along the path a Spotted Fritillary landed. It was a male but looked nothing like the artificial orange ones from the Dordogne. I wondered if it was a Lesser Spotted Frit at the time but looking more closely at it later it was just a Spotted – though of a different race to those in the Dordogne. It was a cracking butterfly and should have been the perfect end to the day but foolishly I carried on, seeking a Striped Grayling but not fining one despite walking all the way down the track to the main road and then back up. This meant that the final butterfly of the day was a Meadow Brown (hopefully it’ll be a Dusky WINK) but the perfect ending came later as I sat on the decking/veranda sipping red wine and watching the sun setting behind the mountain.
Day 3 Part 1 - The Big Walk 01-08-2019
The breakfast walk brought Specklies (the brightest yet), Wall and Grayling. On the way back a Cardinal flew into the small field to greet us. It landed up high but I could just make out the reddish underwing shining through. It then led me on a bit of a merry dance. It would fly into a Chestnut tree, I’d watch it and then walk to the spot and it would have disappeared . As I’d sway left and right to locate it, it would take off and repeat! It made me grateful for the easy shots I got yesterday.
The girls headed off for the pool and I slowly made my way down, taking in the little trackway first. It was a hive of activity with all the usual suspects in droves with the added bonus of a pair of Cardindal. As I was coming away a really tiny, moth like butterfly buzzed about. As I leant in I realised it was a Grizzlie of some description although I won’t sure which one. The row of tiny spots along the margin of the forewings suggested Red –underwing but it was off in a flash after only two shots. Slightly annoyed I carried on stopping for an unusual looking Small Heath.
Further on the now dusty track I encountered the little buzz ball again and this time I was able to clearly see the red under wing – ace a lifer and I’d finally seen a Portugese skipper that I was able to identify. It was a right little beauty. After this I carried on pool-wards – calling in at the garden on the way where a Painted Lady messed around almost literally in the garden and then on the compost heap.
I set out to check the drainage channel at the end of the road and there were a multitude of Grayling trying to distract me on the walk down the dirt track. After the searing heat of the 10 minute walk on Asphalt it was a relief to stumble down the hill into the shade for a few minutes while I checked out the lay of the land. It looked great and so I set about trying to ignore the Hedgie, SBA’s and Small Coppers to concentrate on those species that I’d spent less time with. First up was a Lang’s and then a Spotted Frit of the sandy coloured form. It’s not as spectacular as those I’d seen in France but still a lovely sight. My heart stopped for a moment when a larger, brown Fritillary appeared. It started again soon enough when it turned out to be a Dingy. Another Grizzlie-esque Skipper appeared and distracted me before I saw my first Mallow Skipper. I managed a shot and then a SBA saw it off, the little sod! Still I had that one shot. I checked out a few more including a fantastic Iberian Sooty and then watched a Southern White Admiral cutting its way down the slope before trudging back to the pool and then back to the tent.
As I walked up the ‘front path’ to the tent I spied to white butterflies. On my left was a Bath White and on my right a sort of pale Marbled White. I watched the Bath White but it carried going ceaselessly down the track once it was past me and then I lost it as it glided down the terraces. Turning I was able to watch the Marbled White land and I could see it was a lot less chequered – so an Iberian Marbled White.
The girls headed off for the pool and I slowly made my way down, taking in the little trackway first. It was a hive of activity with all the usual suspects in droves with the added bonus of a pair of Cardindal. As I was coming away a really tiny, moth like butterfly buzzed about. As I leant in I realised it was a Grizzlie of some description although I won’t sure which one. The row of tiny spots along the margin of the forewings suggested Red –underwing but it was off in a flash after only two shots. Slightly annoyed I carried on stopping for an unusual looking Small Heath.
Further on the now dusty track I encountered the little buzz ball again and this time I was able to clearly see the red under wing – ace a lifer and I’d finally seen a Portugese skipper that I was able to identify. It was a right little beauty. After this I carried on pool-wards – calling in at the garden on the way where a Painted Lady messed around almost literally in the garden and then on the compost heap.
I set out to check the drainage channel at the end of the road and there were a multitude of Grayling trying to distract me on the walk down the dirt track. After the searing heat of the 10 minute walk on Asphalt it was a relief to stumble down the hill into the shade for a few minutes while I checked out the lay of the land. It looked great and so I set about trying to ignore the Hedgie, SBA’s and Small Coppers to concentrate on those species that I’d spent less time with. First up was a Lang’s and then a Spotted Frit of the sandy coloured form. It’s not as spectacular as those I’d seen in France but still a lovely sight. My heart stopped for a moment when a larger, brown Fritillary appeared. It started again soon enough when it turned out to be a Dingy. Another Grizzlie-esque Skipper appeared and distracted me before I saw my first Mallow Skipper. I managed a shot and then a SBA saw it off, the little sod! Still I had that one shot. I checked out a few more including a fantastic Iberian Sooty and then watched a Southern White Admiral cutting its way down the slope before trudging back to the pool and then back to the tent.
As I walked up the ‘front path’ to the tent I spied to white butterflies. On my left was a Bath White and on my right a sort of pale Marbled White. I watched the Bath White but it carried going ceaselessly down the track once it was past me and then I lost it as it glided down the terraces. Turning I was able to watch the Marbled White land and I could see it was a lot less chequered – so an Iberian Marbled White.
Day 3 Part 2 - The Big Walk 01-08-2019
After lunch I set out on the 8km walk to scout it out and see if it was suitable for the girls to do. The path I was following dove down the hill, a narrow terrace walled on either side for a while before the one side was replaced by trees. It was alive with butterflies who sensibly were making the most of the shade. They’d fly out, glide and soar of a Grayling species or flutter in a panic if a Brown, before landing on a tree or the wall and sitting tight. Occasionally a really bright orange ‘butterfly’ would fly – a Jersey Tiger Moth bit I also caught up with several Great Banded Graylings one of which I managed to capture by shining up a tree and photographing one handed.
Further along the path came to an end I crossed the road following a more open trackway. A different butterfly flew here and one I’d been hoping to catch up with. It was one of the smartest butterflies that I’d seen with clean black and whites chevrons and jagged lines crossing its folded wings, a Striped Grayling. I marvelled at the way that in the full sun the colours shifted just as they had with the Tree Graylings – this time from resplendent black and white to browns and creams.
The trackway joined a proper road and I made to enter into a little hamlet but before I crossed the bridge a Clouded Yellow flew lazily about in a lay-by and once in the hamlet a Cardinal frequented a tree in one of the garden of the bridge houses. It flew ahead of me and landed to take salts from some run off down the track.
By now I was feeling a bit knackered and only half way through the walk so I didn’t think this would be suitable for the girls, also I was in desperate need of a coffee so it became a case of head down and walk. There were a few stops on the way. A little clearing on the edge of the Roman road that I was on was alive with Small Copper and SBA and in Pero Soares a Geranium Bronze flew around some Geraniums. The final stretch was a bit of a blur yet held a four of the Grayling species that I’d already encountered. It was a blur because my water had run out, I’d gotten a wriggle on and I was carrying a large rock and big stick as a massive dog was loping along behind me. It had started following me as I’d left Pero Soares barking nastily and it was hot on my heels all the way up the side of the hill…
Safely back I washed up and enjoyed a much needed coffee sitting in the sun. While we were having tea the IMW turned up and then I grabbed a few more Grayling shots while on the way to and from the pool for the evening swim.
Further along the path came to an end I crossed the road following a more open trackway. A different butterfly flew here and one I’d been hoping to catch up with. It was one of the smartest butterflies that I’d seen with clean black and whites chevrons and jagged lines crossing its folded wings, a Striped Grayling. I marvelled at the way that in the full sun the colours shifted just as they had with the Tree Graylings – this time from resplendent black and white to browns and creams.
The trackway joined a proper road and I made to enter into a little hamlet but before I crossed the bridge a Clouded Yellow flew lazily about in a lay-by and once in the hamlet a Cardinal frequented a tree in one of the garden of the bridge houses. It flew ahead of me and landed to take salts from some run off down the track.
By now I was feeling a bit knackered and only half way through the walk so I didn’t think this would be suitable for the girls, also I was in desperate need of a coffee so it became a case of head down and walk. There were a few stops on the way. A little clearing on the edge of the Roman road that I was on was alive with Small Copper and SBA and in Pero Soares a Geranium Bronze flew around some Geraniums. The final stretch was a bit of a blur yet held a four of the Grayling species that I’d already encountered. It was a blur because my water had run out, I’d gotten a wriggle on and I was carrying a large rock and big stick as a massive dog was loping along behind me. It had started following me as I’d left Pero Soares barking nastily and it was hot on my heels all the way up the side of the hill…
Safely back I washed up and enjoyed a much needed coffee sitting in the sun. While we were having tea the IMW turned up and then I grabbed a few more Grayling shots while on the way to and from the pool for the evening swim.
Day four An 'In day' Part 1 02-08-2019
A quick stroll after breakfast and before 2nd breakfast (coffee and fruit then continental down at the Villa) threw up a few early morning Specklies but they were still as demented as ever and there was also a/the Spotted Fritillary and a nicely posed Lang’s. After this we drove over to Guarda to pick up a few more supplies form Lidl. Whilst I was at the till I enjoyed the incongruous sight of 2 Painted Ladies, a Hummingbird Hawk Moth, Silver-washed Frit and 4 Cardinals all feeding on the Buddleia outside. If only my trips to Lidl at home produced such classics I think I’d be there everyday!
Later as I was setting off to catch up with the others round the pool a Cloudy flew through the small field and a Southern Gatekeeper looked nicely posed for once. After this I set off intending to meet the others directly but I got a little waylaid by the little lush track. It was even more alive with butterflies than before. There were SBAs, Small Coppers, the odd Lang’s, Iberian Sooty, both Gatekeepers and also amid the Specklie and Meadow Brown and lovely newly arrived Southern Common Blue. A Spotted Frit joined the fray and a couple of Cardinals messed about. I was hoping to catch up with the Red-underwing Skipper and as luck would have it there was the tell-tale fuzzy little blur which resolved into a stunning fresh individual.
I then went from one scale to another as a Southern Scarce Swallowtail stopped by – looking more lemony than I remembered. I stayed for a short while before drifting off like an errant Kite gliding effortlessly down from one terrace to another. So I zoomed in again and relocated the Grizzlie.
Later as I was setting off to catch up with the others round the pool a Cloudy flew through the small field and a Southern Gatekeeper looked nicely posed for once. After this I set off intending to meet the others directly but I got a little waylaid by the little lush track. It was even more alive with butterflies than before. There were SBAs, Small Coppers, the odd Lang’s, Iberian Sooty, both Gatekeepers and also amid the Specklie and Meadow Brown and lovely newly arrived Southern Common Blue. A Spotted Frit joined the fray and a couple of Cardinals messed about. I was hoping to catch up with the Red-underwing Skipper and as luck would have it there was the tell-tale fuzzy little blur which resolved into a stunning fresh individual.
I then went from one scale to another as a Southern Scarce Swallowtail stopped by – looking more lemony than I remembered. I stayed for a short while before drifting off like an errant Kite gliding effortlessly down from one terrace to another. So I zoomed in again and relocated the Grizzlie.
Day four An 'In day' Part 2 02-08-2019
I eventually reached the pool and headed down the track to the exit with Grayings flying all over the place. I set out for ‘Well/drainage pool’ as surrounded by the intense aridity it seemed like it would be a magnet for the butterflies. For the next 30 minutes I alternated between the shade and sunlit flowers; when I started to feel too hot I nip into the shade and watch the activity from afar and then once cooled slightly I be back out in the sun. I managed to catch up with a Prov Fritillary as well as a Mallow Skipper. In fact with the latter I managed to triple my shot count for this species to three – they are extremely flighty! The Dingy was back again as was another RUS which were much friendlier than their larger carpet looking cousins.
Tired and slightly baked I made my way back up the hill through the Grayling Gauntlet and sat down for a well deserved tea…well after a few more shots of a Cloudy were added to the memory card. Later still I watched a Great Banded Grayling fly across the pond as I floated and cooled myself down before bed.
Tired and slightly baked I made my way back up the hill through the Grayling Gauntlet and sat down for a well deserved tea…well after a few more shots of a Cloudy were added to the memory card. Later still I watched a Great Banded Grayling fly across the pond as I floated and cooled myself down before bed.
Day 5 Saturday? Part 1 03-08-2019
The day started pretty well with a Clouded Yellow in the small field next to the tent along with a Holly Blue and the usual Browns, Graylings and Tree Graylings. After both breakfasts we packed up and drove straight to Guarda, parked up and then strolled up the hill towards the Medieval part of the city. On the way we passed a set of concrete stairs which were emblazoned with a giant snake twisting all the way upwards – it was fantastic and miles better than any graffiti we have at home. However over the course of the morning butterfly sightings were fleeting. Up near the Cathedral I spied a Geranium Bronze, Specklie and a Southern Gatekeeper and on the way back to the car a Scarce Swallowtail and a Green-veined White flew by me. The final butterfly sightings came from the Buddleia outside Lidl’s in the form of a Painted Lady and nine Cardinals! However this fantastic sighting was beaten on the drive home when I saw an azure blue bird sitting on a telegraph wire – my first ever Roller!
After lunch I was free to roam so I set off for the Well. At least I intended too but instead I ended up at the little lush path again and it slowed my progress considerably. A Queen of Spain turned up but only put in the briefest of appearances, there were two Cardinals and two of the smaller Prov Frits. As I was turning to leave I spotted another of the darker Small Heaths which seemed to be either a worn Dusky or the southern subspecies/race? At the end of the track a Long-tailed Blue finally made its appearance on the Holiday List. I’d been wondering where they’d been as the last time I was in Portugal (in Lisbon) the majority of my sightings were of three species and this was one of them; Geranium Bronze and Lang’s being the other two.
I set off again for the Well stopping for the odd Grayling which were everywhere down the dusky track to the road. I making a cautious approach to a Striped Grayling when a hitherto unseen Wall spooked it. Luckily I managed to catch-up with it again a little further on and then spent the rest this part of the walk watching the three other species of Grayling flying round like diurnal bats.
After lunch I was free to roam so I set off for the Well. At least I intended too but instead I ended up at the little lush path again and it slowed my progress considerably. A Queen of Spain turned up but only put in the briefest of appearances, there were two Cardinals and two of the smaller Prov Frits. As I was turning to leave I spotted another of the darker Small Heaths which seemed to be either a worn Dusky or the southern subspecies/race? At the end of the track a Long-tailed Blue finally made its appearance on the Holiday List. I’d been wondering where they’d been as the last time I was in Portugal (in Lisbon) the majority of my sightings were of three species and this was one of them; Geranium Bronze and Lang’s being the other two.
I set off again for the Well stopping for the odd Grayling which were everywhere down the dusky track to the road. I making a cautious approach to a Striped Grayling when a hitherto unseen Wall spooked it. Luckily I managed to catch-up with it again a little further on and then spent the rest this part of the walk watching the three other species of Grayling flying round like diurnal bats.
Day 5 Saturday? Part 2 03-08-2019
I didn’t see much else before I got to the Well, the heat and afternoon sun causing most of the butterflies to sit in the shade. As I approached the Well a small-medium Frit flew along the road leading me down into the Well. There was a second ever so slightly larger Frit as well, a Knapweed Frit which was easily recognisable after seeing so many last year in France. A Lang’s caught my attention and then I went back to the Frits.
After this I braved the Hornets and massive Bees and climbed up and over into the Well itself so that I could catch-up with a Long-tailed Blue and try for a decent side on closed wing shot. While I was in the Well I also saw a Wood White, a Small White, Southern Common Blue, Southern Brown Argus and Iberian Copper as well as a couple of Small Coppers – although all were occupying their own little patches. I climbed back out braving the Hornets and other stingers to slide through the high sward for a few shots of the pretty obliging Frit and then followed another as it took salts from the mud. I then climbed back up the hill to the road watching a mating pair of Wood Whites on the way which were just out of reach of my lens. At the top I followed a Cloudy across the road but in the intense heat I was on a hiding to nothing and so gave up.
Later on the way down to the pool I spied a Great Banded Grayling with a small part of one of its wings missing so the topside was just visible. I also caught up with a lovely little Grizzlie like Skipper another Red-underwing.
After the evening swim and shower it sat out on the decking enjoying the warmth rising up from the wood as another Nightjar churred in the distant…
After this I braved the Hornets and massive Bees and climbed up and over into the Well itself so that I could catch-up with a Long-tailed Blue and try for a decent side on closed wing shot. While I was in the Well I also saw a Wood White, a Small White, Southern Common Blue, Southern Brown Argus and Iberian Copper as well as a couple of Small Coppers – although all were occupying their own little patches. I climbed back out braving the Hornets and other stingers to slide through the high sward for a few shots of the pretty obliging Frit and then followed another as it took salts from the mud. I then climbed back up the hill to the road watching a mating pair of Wood Whites on the way which were just out of reach of my lens. At the top I followed a Cloudy across the road but in the intense heat I was on a hiding to nothing and so gave up.
Later on the way down to the pool I spied a Great Banded Grayling with a small part of one of its wings missing so the topside was just visible. I also caught up with a lovely little Grizzlie like Skipper another Red-underwing.
After the evening swim and shower it sat out on the decking enjoying the warmth rising up from the wood as another Nightjar churred in the distant…
Day 6 – Sunday Pria Fuluvial Part 1
I took a brief stroll before brekkie checking out the end of the path after the verdant trackway. It was pretty quiet down on the trackway although a Cardinal took off before I get a photo of it hanging upside down on the underside of a chestnut leaf. At the end a Frit was hanging around and I managed a few shots before it was off like a shot. At the end of my ‘driveway’ an Iberian Sooty looked gorgeous in the morning sun. I’m still not entirely sure that I’ve seen a male yet?
After second breakfast we drove to Pria Fuluvial – a well appointed river beach with water slide, café, changing area etc. It was a lovely setting and I spied out a few likely looking areas as we set up ‘basecamp’. After the girls had lunch and had zoomed down the slide a few times I checked out the end of the Fuluvial where they’d dammed the river. A few Lang’s fluttered around on the bank, a White cut across the river and a Holly Blue remained up high along the tops of the bushes. I didn’t mind though as a very large raptor glided across in the distance – it was a Short-toed Eagle! Awesome!
I then worked up to the first dam and crossed over it to check out the path on the other side. On the way there was a type of ringed Dragonfly, a few more Whites, Holly Blue and a few Specklies. Along the path I turned left up a track between two walled in fields. It was really lush here and there was a profusion of Clover. A Specklie and a couple of Hedgies followed me up the path whilst a Cardinal waited for me at the top where the path veered off to the right. After I’d dealt with the Cardinal I had a scan about and saw the ubiquitous Small Copper and Southern Brown Argus as well as something larger and browner. It was a Mallow Skipper and finally I was able to spend a little more time with this species. Chuffed I headed back and my wife called me over as a Swallowtail had done a fly-by. It came back but didn’t stop and neither did a Cloudy that also flew over the sands near the dam at the far end of the river.
After second breakfast we drove to Pria Fuluvial – a well appointed river beach with water slide, café, changing area etc. It was a lovely setting and I spied out a few likely looking areas as we set up ‘basecamp’. After the girls had lunch and had zoomed down the slide a few times I checked out the end of the Fuluvial where they’d dammed the river. A few Lang’s fluttered around on the bank, a White cut across the river and a Holly Blue remained up high along the tops of the bushes. I didn’t mind though as a very large raptor glided across in the distance – it was a Short-toed Eagle! Awesome!
I then worked up to the first dam and crossed over it to check out the path on the other side. On the way there was a type of ringed Dragonfly, a few more Whites, Holly Blue and a few Specklies. Along the path I turned left up a track between two walled in fields. It was really lush here and there was a profusion of Clover. A Specklie and a couple of Hedgies followed me up the path whilst a Cardinal waited for me at the top where the path veered off to the right. After I’d dealt with the Cardinal I had a scan about and saw the ubiquitous Small Copper and Southern Brown Argus as well as something larger and browner. It was a Mallow Skipper and finally I was able to spend a little more time with this species. Chuffed I headed back and my wife called me over as a Swallowtail had done a fly-by. It came back but didn’t stop and neither did a Cloudy that also flew over the sands near the dam at the far end of the river.
Day 6 – Sunday Pria Fuluvial Part 2
After checking in with the girls and providing them with fizzy drinks I made my way back to the little track. The Cardinal was there again as were the Hedgies et al but no sign of the Mallow. I looked over the wall into one of the neighbouring fields and it was filled with Clover, the greenest spot I’d seen all holiday. I climbed up onto the wall and peered in. I could make out at least 5 Cardinals, some blurry little butterflies (probably Coppers/BAs) and a Cloudy quartered the far end. I spotted something a little odd looking and leaned over losing my balance and ended up in a heap in the field, legs ripped to shreds by the brambles but camera held aloft and intact. As I was now in the field I decided to make the most of it and get some compensation for the lacerations on my legs and the burning embarrassment of having gone A over T so I had the slightest of mooches, hugging the edge of the field and leaning in so as not to trample or disturb the field. I managed to spot 5 Cardinals, Dingy Skipper, Southern Common Blue, SBA, Small Copper and Iberian Sooty. The piece de la resistance was a different looking Grizzlie which in all eventuality was a Southern Grizzlie.
Somehow I managed to clamber back out but received even more cuts from the brambles as a thank you for being so careful in the field and then I made my way back the way I’d come. On the way I followed a Wood White for a it but it didn’t stop even when in the cool shade of the tree lined riverside path. I also saw a Comma, it was extraordinarily bright and lightly marked but when I looked at the wing shaped later it was curved and not straight so it wasn’t a Southern Comma, just an H.Comma. Once back with the girls we discovered that the slide wasn’t going to be open for another 2 hours and so we headed back ‘home’.
After tea I made my way down to the pool with the girls for my now routine swim, stopping on the way for a lovely Striped Grayling – possibly my favourite new species of the trip so far. After the swim and feeling much cooler and less dusty we made the trek back up the hill. A Tree Grayling caught my eye and a mating pair of Shieldbugs caught the eyes of the girls. Then later still I turned my hand to moth trapping...Really this entailed seeing what was fluttering round the light while I was trying to read!
Somehow I managed to clamber back out but received even more cuts from the brambles as a thank you for being so careful in the field and then I made my way back the way I’d come. On the way I followed a Wood White for a it but it didn’t stop even when in the cool shade of the tree lined riverside path. I also saw a Comma, it was extraordinarily bright and lightly marked but when I looked at the wing shaped later it was curved and not straight so it wasn’t a Southern Comma, just an H.Comma. Once back with the girls we discovered that the slide wasn’t going to be open for another 2 hours and so we headed back ‘home’.
After tea I made my way down to the pool with the girls for my now routine swim, stopping on the way for a lovely Striped Grayling – possibly my favourite new species of the trip so far. After the swim and feeling much cooler and less dusty we made the trek back up the hill. A Tree Grayling caught my eye and a mating pair of Shieldbugs caught the eyes of the girls. Then later still I turned my hand to moth trapping...Really this entailed seeing what was fluttering round the light while I was trying to read!
Last Day Proper Part 1 06-08-2019
The sun rose on the last day proper and so I was determined to make the most of it. My pre-brekkie wander saw me concentrating on Hedgies – females of both ‘normal’ and Southern before we made our way to Guarda again and possibly on afterwards to a place called Manteigas…
We started in La Vie as the girls really liked looking in the different shops and seeing unfamiliar goods and even better familiar goods with Portuguese packaging and then we tried the Museum. Last time it was free but Fechio, today it was Aberto but decidedly expensive – how does that work then? It’s free when it’s not open but they charge when it is open – so it’s never actually free? Oh well we headed back to the Welcome Centre and to get the low down on a few places nearby that we could visit and a Geranium Bronze flew in one of the flower beds on the way. While we mulled over where to go next we strolled back to Torre de Montenga.
The Swallowtails were slightly better behaved although most were a little tatty now and mostly tailless. They also seemed to be preferring the lower slopes feeding just of the path while the girls rested in the shade and prepared for lunch. A Long-tailed Blue flew in amongst the Sooty Coppers and Lang’s on the lower slopes and at the top instead of marauding and malevolent Swallowtails it seemed that the Browns had picked up the aggressive bug. There were two little clusters of Browns bombing around and into each other with dizzying regularity. I’d watch one glide in the sun and then land it would land, I’d approach carefully work out what it was, lift my camera and then it would be off in spiralling, ascending bundle.
Somehow I managed to clock a Wall and two Large Walls in the melee. Round on the other side of the tower there were another pair of Large Walls and I managed to sneak up on one while it had it’s wings open – a male. It moved slightly and landed closed wings so I was able to get a better looking individual than on the day before. Back at the bottom while we lunched the Swallowtails continued to play around the lower slopes.
We started in La Vie as the girls really liked looking in the different shops and seeing unfamiliar goods and even better familiar goods with Portuguese packaging and then we tried the Museum. Last time it was free but Fechio, today it was Aberto but decidedly expensive – how does that work then? It’s free when it’s not open but they charge when it is open – so it’s never actually free? Oh well we headed back to the Welcome Centre and to get the low down on a few places nearby that we could visit and a Geranium Bronze flew in one of the flower beds on the way. While we mulled over where to go next we strolled back to Torre de Montenga.
The Swallowtails were slightly better behaved although most were a little tatty now and mostly tailless. They also seemed to be preferring the lower slopes feeding just of the path while the girls rested in the shade and prepared for lunch. A Long-tailed Blue flew in amongst the Sooty Coppers and Lang’s on the lower slopes and at the top instead of marauding and malevolent Swallowtails it seemed that the Browns had picked up the aggressive bug. There were two little clusters of Browns bombing around and into each other with dizzying regularity. I’d watch one glide in the sun and then land it would land, I’d approach carefully work out what it was, lift my camera and then it would be off in spiralling, ascending bundle.
Somehow I managed to clock a Wall and two Large Walls in the melee. Round on the other side of the tower there were another pair of Large Walls and I managed to sneak up on one while it had it’s wings open – a male. It moved slightly and landed closed wings so I was able to get a better looking individual than on the day before. Back at the bottom while we lunched the Swallowtails continued to play around the lower slopes.
Last Day Proper Part 2 06-08-2019
Once back home and with the girls off at the Pool/pond I had a chance for a final look round. The little part of the path on the way to the verdant track held a couple of SBAs and a Lang’s. Slightly further along there was a Small Copper and by the little well at the end a Wood White and Long-tailed Blue.
On the next bend up a few Small Coppers flew as did a Striped Grayling and finally at the verdant area I spent my time with a small Frit and a Small White about which I wondered about being a Southern Small White not realising that they don’t fly in this part of the world. I then went to check the time and realised that I’d left my watch up at the Lodge, so back up the hill I went but I didn’t mind as I could have my coffee which I’d been leaving for my return.
On the main trackway down there were a few fly-by Hedgies and a Wall, Grayling and GB Grayling all of which stopped for a photo as it had clouded over and the wind had picked up. At the Well once I’d gotten there things were the quietest that I’d yet seen with all the usual suspects but this just goes to show how quickly humans get used to situations as the cast of usual suspects included – Southern Common Blues, Long-tailed and Lang’s Short-tailed Blues Iberian Sooty Copper, Southern Brown Argus.
Oh well all good things must come to an end – although there may be some time to see things tomorrow before we fly. Plus there was still a cool pool to swim in, some ice cold beers to finish up and a little mothing whilst reading and listening to Scops Owls and Nightjars…
On the next bend up a few Small Coppers flew as did a Striped Grayling and finally at the verdant area I spent my time with a small Frit and a Small White about which I wondered about being a Southern Small White not realising that they don’t fly in this part of the world. I then went to check the time and realised that I’d left my watch up at the Lodge, so back up the hill I went but I didn’t mind as I could have my coffee which I’d been leaving for my return.
On the main trackway down there were a few fly-by Hedgies and a Wall, Grayling and GB Grayling all of which stopped for a photo as it had clouded over and the wind had picked up. At the Well once I’d gotten there things were the quietest that I’d yet seen with all the usual suspects but this just goes to show how quickly humans get used to situations as the cast of usual suspects included – Southern Common Blues, Long-tailed and Lang’s Short-tailed Blues Iberian Sooty Copper, Southern Brown Argus.
Oh well all good things must come to an end – although there may be some time to see things tomorrow before we fly. Plus there was still a cool pool to swim in, some ice cold beers to finish up and a little mothing whilst reading and listening to Scops Owls and Nightjars…
Final Day 07-08-2019
The final day dawned and was the prime example of pathetic fallacy as my mood matched the greyness of the cloud perfectly. Once we’d eaten first breakfast, packed and loaded the hire car we set off down the dusty track for our final 2nd breakfast and to say our goodbyes to the hosts. We then climbed back up the hill for the last time and still with not a butterfly in sight. While I waited for my final cup of coffee to cool enough to drink I took one last walk up the ‘drive’ and had a last look round. There were still no butterflies – kept at bay by the leaden skies. A single Tree Grayling was the only one I could find whilst wandering the tracks which had thrown up new species after new species for me the past week. At the end of the track some chirruping and clicking made me look up and a small flock of 30 or so Swallows landed on the telegraph wires. They looked lighter than they should be and when I looked more carefully I realised that only a couple of them were Swallows, or more correctly Barn Swallows and the rest were Red-rumped Swallows. I’d only seen this species once before on a trip to Kefalonia where they would skim over the surface of the pool, so it was great to catch up with them again.
So stopping briefly so little L could say goodbye to the goats we set off with the skies becoming darker and darker as we drove. The journey was pretty subdued and three Bee-eaters looked totally out of place amid the drear and recently started rain shower as they sat on the roadside wires. About half way through the journey we turned off the surprisingly quiet motorway to have a look around a small town called Viseau. We ended up driving right through the town before finding somewhere to park in the ‘suburbs’ and walking back. On the walk back into town there were a few whites and the odd Black Redstart but the cloud was keeping the butterflies away. Golden Orioles called as we ate lunch and then we went to have a look at some culture – checking out the medieval Old Town and Cathedral. Once in the little plaza we were dive bombed by Crag Martins another species I’d not seen for a few years.
Then it was back in the car, drive to the airport, drop the car off, fly home and drive home. We came down to earth with a bit of a bump finally getting back at stupid o’clock in the morning. The next day while feasting on toast and marmalade I let my mind drift back to the trip. Looking at the numbers it was a little disappointing. Only 41 species or so seen but then thinking about the nature of the holiday and when it was plus the fact that almost a third of the species seen were lifers and if races/forms are taken into consideration over 45% were new – it was pretty bloody great!
So stopping briefly so little L could say goodbye to the goats we set off with the skies becoming darker and darker as we drove. The journey was pretty subdued and three Bee-eaters looked totally out of place amid the drear and recently started rain shower as they sat on the roadside wires. About half way through the journey we turned off the surprisingly quiet motorway to have a look around a small town called Viseau. We ended up driving right through the town before finding somewhere to park in the ‘suburbs’ and walking back. On the walk back into town there were a few whites and the odd Black Redstart but the cloud was keeping the butterflies away. Golden Orioles called as we ate lunch and then we went to have a look at some culture – checking out the medieval Old Town and Cathedral. Once in the little plaza we were dive bombed by Crag Martins another species I’d not seen for a few years.
Then it was back in the car, drive to the airport, drop the car off, fly home and drive home. We came down to earth with a bit of a bump finally getting back at stupid o’clock in the morning. The next day while feasting on toast and marmalade I let my mind drift back to the trip. Looking at the numbers it was a little disappointing. Only 41 species or so seen but then thinking about the nature of the holiday and when it was plus the fact that almost a third of the species seen were lifers and if races/forms are taken into consideration over 45% were new – it was pretty bloody great!